I can’t imagine they’d have even ONE 29mm socket. I hate the metal clangy chocks, especially the little bungy ones. For “in case the FBO doesn’t have some” I kinda like these. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/airgizmoswheelchocks.php But nothing beats the classic rubber and derby rope,...

Not sure if this was already mentioned... shell 15w50 already contains the Lycoming additive, so I would not double down with camguard. Same thing with w100+ Lots of contention over which is better between camguard and the Lycoming “original” - all I know is the latter is significantly more expensiv...

Setting aside the obvious possibility that it wasn’t closed... When the door pops open, it’s usually in the ground and I think that’s because of the extra vibration. 1. The door pin geometry could be off. I’ve had door latches that didn’t want to properly stow unless you pushed on a magic spot on th...

There is next to zero chance it’s oil. The crank flange is well aft of the cowling opening and the air flows rearward from there. It will surely be grease from one of the blade roots, cause for a prop reseal.

It is Sika Biresin® CR132 FR self-extinguishing resin. I do believe that is the resin used to make the cowling itself, not the paint they cover it with. Edit: Ah, I just read the SI and I guess you can use this resin instead of fire paint on the cowlings. I don’t think that’s what Glenn uses though.

What I mean is have you checked them again since the new riser was installed to see if they are still tight?

I don’t know about the hobbs being universal, my experience has been mostly with going off of the engine tach for maintenance. I’d say if anything those are actually more forgiving than the Garmin tach because they are more like a car odometer and vary with RPM whereas the former is just a clock so ...

Have you been torque checking the exhaust nuts? It seems strange that with a new riser and a new gasket that the leak would continue if it is in fact coming from the exhaust port. I would replace the plain exhaust nuts and toothed washers with locknuts.

The paint is very expensive but that labor is super high. Part of the problem with the paint is it comes off TOO easily. So you don’t need two days of sanding and reapplying. A couple hours to remove tops. A soda blaster or maybe even a pressure washer should make quick work of it. Definitely get it...

I suppose it’s possible but have not seen “inconsistent idle” lead to fuel servo replacement. It seems that you would be able to confirm this by attempting to adjust the idle mixture and not being able to dial it in (getting to the max adjustment one way or the other and still not getting a good rig...