50 hours - Oil Change

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Nirbm01
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50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Nirbm01 »

Hi All,

I am about ready to do my first 50hours by myself - wanted to check if anyone got input that can help better prepare? how complicated it is? spare parts - any input what should I be prepare to?

buy parts local or online, etc.

Thanks!
Nir
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Gasser
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Gasser »

Im right there with you. I want to do these myself. Looking forward to the replys.
Jeff

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168 KTAS 9,000' msl @ 13.6 gph LOP. 1005 pound useful load.
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by CFIDave »

After participating in my first "owner-assisted annual" earlier this year (which included an oil change), I finally got the courage to change the oil myself.

It's really not very difficult. I ordered the oil, filter, oil filter wrench, and a safety wire kit (with tool) from Aircraft Spruce, and saved multiple empty gallon milk containers to collect the oil.

I'm sure others will comment, but here are a few hints of what worked well for me.

- Obtain a few feet of black rubber tubing from a hardware store to create an oil drain hose. I used a pair of vice-grip pliers to temporarily hold the hose to the drain valve, with the other end of the hose placed in an empty milk container on the hangar floor.

- Place a large clear zip-lock bag around the oil filter while unscrewing it to catch the residual oil.

- Practice safety wiring beforehand; there are a few YouTube videos available to show how. It's then easy to safety wire the new oil filter after installation.

Bottom line: you can do it yourself.
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Kai
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Kai »

CFIDave wrote:After participating in my first "owner-assisted annual" earlier this year (which included an oil change), I finally got the courage to change the oil myself.

It's really not very difficult. I ordered the oil, filter, oil filter wrench, and a safety wire kit (with tool) from Aircraft Spruce, and saved multiple empty gallon milk containers to collect the oil.

I'm sure others will comment, but here are a few hints of what worked well for me.

- Obtain a few feet of black rubber tubing from a hardware store to create an oil drain hose. I used a pair of vice-grip pliers to temporarily hold the hose to the drain valve, with the other end of the hose placed in an empty milk container on the hangar floor.

- Place a large clear zip-lock bag around the oil filter while unscrewing it to catch the residual oil.

- Practice safety wiring beforehand; there are a few YouTube videos available to show how. It's then easy to safety wire the new oil filter after installation.

Bottom line: you can do it yourself.
All as I would do it. Preparing the job carefully will guarantee that you don´t spill a single drop of oil.

A few more ideas: When placing the plastic bag over the old filter and after unscrewing it, I leave the bag with the filter hanging for a while until all oil has dripped into the bag. Can take a few minutes.

Moisten the sealant ring of the new filter with a drop of oil so it closes tightly.
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by carym »

Oil should be changed when the engine is hot (or at least warm). Be careful when unscrewing the oil filter. I have burned myself several times when changing the oil on my C310 (I did it every 25 hours).
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by David B »

The rubber tube placed under the filter works well, but ensuring it stays in place and the need for vice grips can be alleviated if you use a simple plastic section of "J" trim used for vinyl siding on houses. It can be cut to about 3' long, and because it is somewhat rigid, it fits nicely between the engine mount and one of the cable runs which support it well beneath the oil filter.

I open the main oil drain to remove most of the oil from the engine (warm) and then I place this "J" trim section under the oil filter between the filter and the engine case. I then loosen the oil filter just enough to allow it to drain the excess oil into the "J" trim drain which flows into my oil pail. I just let it run till it stops and from there remove the filter without a single drop of oil being spilled within the engine.

While you have the cowlings off, its also a good idea to go through the 50 hour check list while everything is open and visable. This list is found in the AMM under section 5 I believe.

I think its a great idea for every owner to learn how to do this because it allows us to put a second set of eyes on our planes. I once found a cracked exhaust (inherent on DA40's) doing an oil change, so it gives me peace of mind doing this myself.
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Nirbm01 »

Thanks for the great input, I will do it next week and post the pictures, hopefully won't be a drop of oil :)
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Nirbm01 »

I started yesterday the 50 hours, only to find out that the manual is very unclear, there are 2 option to drain the oil (both side of the sump) but one is more accessible (pilot seat side) but the screw is square, does anyone replaced the square one with a quick release one? Also couldn't find the right torque setting for putting it back on - anyone knows that?

Thanks,
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Gasser »

Got mine changed today. I used the rear bolt on the oil sump. The scary thing was that is was finger tight at most. It was safety wired and was not leaking but I felt absolutely no resistance when I put a wrench on it. Not good.

Got everything changed, safety wired back in and ran. No leaks so good to go for another 50 hours.

To drain the oil I used a 5 gallon bucket, some flexible dryer duct to funnel the oil to the bucket.
On the oil filter. Used the zip lock bag trick. Worked great.

I feel good putting my hands on everything to be sure it was all done to my anal standards. At least the oil drain bolt will be snug
Jeff

PRIVATE PILOT, IFR
2005 DA40 SOLD
2006 SR22, A/C, TKS, AVIDYINE PFD/MFD, IFD 540/440, AXP322 remote ADS-B TRANSPONDER, AMX240 AUDIO PANEL, MLB100 ADS B in.
168 KTAS 9,000' msl @ 13.6 gph LOP. 1005 pound useful load.
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Re: 50 hours - Oil Change

Post by Steve »

Nirbm01 wrote:I started yesterday the 50 hours, only to find out that the manual is very unclear, there are 2 option to drain the oil (both side of the sump) but one is more accessible (pilot seat side) but the screw is square, does anyone replaced the square one with a quick release one? Also couldn't find the right torque setting for putting it back on - anyone knows that?

Thanks,
The square drive screw is actually an 1/2-14 NPT pipe plug. I would definitely recommend replacing it with a quick drain as I did on my first oil change. The torque value specified in the Lycoming manual is 160 inch pounds. Mine was on so tight (from the factory) that I had to use a big pipe wrench with an extender to get it off!

Have fun...

Steve
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