Finally, I took down the panel cover the other day and took some pictures of the Rivets that broke off. Here it is, apparently broke off due to whatever reason. Wonder a regular Rivet gun would get the job done?Rich wrote: ↑Fri Jun 12, 2020 11:18 pm Bryan, I believe there are through-rivets in the instrument panel but they are covered by some sort of coating or adhesive material. The IPC is dismal in representing any but the oldest instrument panels, but the AMM for the G1000 panel (Pg. 205) seems to show a couple of countersunk holes for rivets right where your bracket came loose:
Screen Shot 2020-06-12 at 16.10.00.jpg
Rubber strip replacement
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- yl472401
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
Those are flush rivets and, I presume, are covered on the panel-viewing side with some sort of film. I don't see pop-rivets working. To do a good job would require some specialized tools/expertise, I would think. Otherwise you'd have this ugly canker-sore looking spot on the panel that would drive you nuts Maybe a couple of tiny countersunk screws/nuts could be used? Also look for "hand-rivet squeezers". With the right rivets you could probably pull this off.yl472401 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 1:42 amFinally, I took down the panel cover the other day and took some pictures of the Rivets that broke off. Here it is, apparently broke off due to whatever reason. Wonder a regular Rivet gun would get the job done?Rich wrote: ↑Fri Jun 12, 2020 11:18 pm Bryan, I believe there are through-rivets in the instrument panel but they are covered by some sort of coating or adhesive material. The IPC is dismal in representing any but the oldest instrument panels, but the AMM for the G1000 panel (Pg. 205) seems to show a couple of countersunk holes for rivets right where your bracket came loose:
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
If it were my panel, I'd just use the appropriate flat head hex screw, painted to match the panel, and a nyloc nut on the rear. Saves you having to buy/borrow a rivet squeezer. You could also use the appropriate size flush Cherry rivet - you can pull those with a standard rivet tool.
Last edited by Steve on Mon Jun 29, 2020 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Rubber strip replacement
I’ll consider the option. Thanks fir the advice.Steve wrote:If it were my panel, I'd just use the appropriate flat head hex screw, painted to match the panel, and a nylon nut on the rear. Saves you having to buy/borrow a rivet squeezer. You could also use the appropriate size flush Cherry rivet - you can pull those with a standard rivet tool.
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
In our "old" panels the heads are exposed and painted over. It appears to me the G1000 panels have some sort of skin on the face that hides the rivets. You need to carefully work around that to avoid ugliness.Steve wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 4:24 pm If it were my panel, I'd just use the appropriate flat head hex screw, painted to match the panel, and a nylon nut on the rear. Saves you having to buy/borrow a rivet squeezer. You could also use the appropriate size flush Cherry rivet - you can pull those with a standard rivet tool.
Find some guy building a Van's RV and he'll fix you right up. Those guys are rivet-masters by the time they're done
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
Thanks Rich. I’ll try the counter sunk screw first maybe and use Steve's method if it doesn’t worn out.Rich wrote:Those are flush rivets and, I presume, are covered on the panel-viewing side with some sort of film. I don't see pop-rivets working. To do a good job would require some specialized tools/expertise, I would think. Otherwise you'd have this ugly canker-sore looking spot on the panel that would drive you nuts Maybe a couple of tiny countersunk screws/nuts could be used? Also look for "hand-rivet squeezers". With the right rivets you could probably pull this off.yl472401 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 1:42 amFinally, I took down the panel cover the other day and took some pictures of the Rivets that broke off. Here it is, apparently broke off due to whatever reason. Wonder a regular Rivet gun would get the job done?Rich wrote: ↑Fri Jun 12, 2020 11:18 pm Bryan, I believe there are through-rivets in the instrument panel but they are covered by some sort of coating or adhesive material. The IPC is dismal in representing any but the oldest instrument panels, but the AMM for the G1000 panel (Pg. 205) seems to show a couple of countersunk holes for rivets right where your bracket came loose:
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
I'm still intrigued by why those rivets sheared off. Or did they pull out? Maybe they weren't properly stressed into place to begin with and vibration took its toll?
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Rubber strip replacement
I’d speculate that it wasn’t properly stressed at the beginning and finally gave in after years of pulling from the vibration.Rich wrote:I'm still intrigued by why those rivets sheared off. Or did they pull out? Maybe they weren't properly stressed into place to begin with and vibration took its toll?
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
Here it is. The myth finally got solved. It's a small panel that got bolted onto the metal panel which the small bracket was anchored on with rivets.
Explained by these pictures
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Re: Rubber strip replacement
What is the wing gap strip adhesive?
May have missed it in reading the posts, but has anyone found out what adhesive Diamond uses to secure the rubber strip to the wing gap or canopy gap.
Tried all types of locally sourced silicon adhesives with good adherence to the paint but poor to no sticking to the rubber strip even after roughing with sandpaper. Contact cement is the same.
I can live with the tape on the wing gap but it will not work with the canopy.
Thanks
May have missed it in reading the posts, but has anyone found out what adhesive Diamond uses to secure the rubber strip to the wing gap or canopy gap.
Tried all types of locally sourced silicon adhesives with good adherence to the paint but poor to no sticking to the rubber strip even after roughing with sandpaper. Contact cement is the same.
I can live with the tape on the wing gap but it will not work with the canopy.
Thanks