MarkA wrote:We used hinged 2 X 4 screwed into the floor with painted guides on the ramp to guide the DA40 in and out of a 40' hangar. Never had a hangar rash issue.
It is pretty easy to attach them, just a use masonry bit and a couple masonry screws. They don't have to be real solid since all you want to do is to make sure as long as you keep the mains in-between the boards you're good.
I use a tug to get in and out - gives me enough control - have about 8-10 inch clearance on each side. I also have an aiming line on the back wall of the hangar I made using black and white gorilla tape. So if I aim the top of the vertical fin at that line it really helps.
Charles
KCCR Based
N5WU - 2004 G1000 DA40 40.400, GTX345R ADS-B, WAAS Upgraded in 2021 via Diamond Upgrade Program
IFR and ME Rated - Advanced Ground Instructor Rated
MarkA wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 9:19 pm
We used hinged 2 X 4 screwed into the floor with painted guides on the ramp to guide the DA40 in and out of a 40' hangar. Never had a hangar rash issue.
Oh! The hinge feature on the rails is clever. Provides guidance before the plane gets into the hangar.
Harder than an ILS is right! I'm sure I will develop the skills over time but I definitely underestimated pushing a "big" airplane into a tight hangar
MarkA wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 11:46 pm
It is pretty easy to attach them, just a use masonry bit and a couple masonry screws. They don't have to be real solid since all you want to do is to make sure as long as you keep the mains in-between the boards you're good.
I noticed the nose wheel in that picture is turned to probably full stop. How does that work with going straight back into the hangar?
I have about 1' clearance on each side, if the plane is centered in the hangar. I put lines from the door into the alley for all three wheels. The plane is on those lines before the wings enter the hangar. Then I put parking stops on the floor which are precisely positioned. If the wheels hit the stops, the tips won't hit the hangar walls, the tail won't hit the rear of the hangar and the spinner is clear of the doors.
At the time the photo was taken, we had a winch in that 40' hangar and just pushed the tail down to line it up with the 2 x 4s as it was pulled into the hangar. The nose wheel therefore ended up pointing where ever it started off.
I now have a 45' hangar (and a different DA40) where I use a winch with a harness on the landing gear to pull the plane into the hangar. The winch has a long corded remote control and I just guide it into the hangar using the tow bar on the nose wheel. See the youtube video below.
I too painted three lines to guide me while using a tug
Additionally, I used a very crude sensor before I moved to an FBO shared hanger. This "sensor" was merely old two foot long sections of 4x4 that I stood on end at the wing's hanger clearance points. Each of these 4x4's had a driveway snow pole sticking from its center so if I crossed the hanger threshold too close to either side the wing would merely tip the "sensor" over with a loud clang. I would then reposition the aircraft - stand the sensor back up and repeat.
If I return to a personal hanger I will use the hinged 2x4's, tug, and lines.
I like the idea to put guide rails on the floor. Is it easy to bolt on to a concrete floor?
Depends on the iron in the concrete, the drill and the drill bit. If you come well prepared, it's a matter of seconds to drill the holes. A skilled DIYer should not have any problems to get this done. But given the fact you asked this questions, I would suggest you get a metal smith to not only sell you a U- or C-profile as rails but also to drill the holes in the profile and then attach it to the floor.